And remember, it's about VIABLE builds. They don't have to be tip top PVP builds. Afterall, pvp means nothing here. So, it's all about viability to run end game content. I don't think it would be very hard to make a game with customization the extended far enough that it could entertain and still be useful at the most difficult level in terms of content.
No offense (its not personal) I just don't like such naive ignorance against PvP.
Out of all the hundreds of hours spent in D2, and new Barbarians, Amazons and Sorceresses I rolled (my preferred classes), the skill system NEVER, EVER made me think "gosh, I really like how much I can customize my character with this system!"
In D2, it was always a choice from a handful templates per class. Like I'm going to spend weeks playing a character to explore a potentially crappy build all on my own? Then repeat? No. This does not fall within most gamers' definitions of "fun." I'm either going to load up a hacked character offline and test it out, or spend hours sifting through forum posts. (The latter of which is akin wading through raw sewage to find lost jewelry.) The fact that this was the best way for players to go about discovering what good choices they had available speaks LOUDLY about how bad D2's skill system was.
Now take that handful of templates, throw away the PvP centric (carebear hugs!), throw away the ones I didn't have the gear or runewords for (if i hacked gear, what was the point?), and pick among what I knew I'd find fun to play? Honestly, that left me with 2 choices per class.
The minor variances within a templated build brought no sense of meaningful customization to me, and were usually the result of impatience (screw it I'm spending these points!) or a mistake.
Beyond choosing between two templates, I rerolled for the fun of playing through again, and to over-gear new characters, not because I felt like I was exploring any meaningful or enjoyable customization out of the statpoint and skillpoint system.
Good riddance.
PS - I really hated stockpiling points and always felt it meant the system was poorly designed.
U hit the nail on the head, and hence why the new system will totally rock in D3
Essentially it means there won't be the "best" builds, there will be many VIABLE builds, many new builds, that might be good for a particular play style, but not better than others, just different.. and that's really the system that every game should have.
It could be a connection between your graphics card and the PCB its on.
I guess this is a possibility, take your graphics card out and use rubbing alcohol with QUE TIPS and clean off the gold part, and then reseat it ensuring that it is in the mobo correctly.
Sounds like the monitor may have some bad capacitors in it, and is taking a while to "warm up" so the back light can turn on.
Before you go to bed and turn off your computer, go to monitor settings and reduce the brightness, reduce it enough to were you can still see it though. The next morning if you turn your monitor on and it instantly comes on (with the reduced brightness) then you probably have some bad capacitors.
It sounds like this is the problem since you said if you turn it off and back on, it does not happen. This is because the monitor is already "warmed up".
Anyways, I would test the monitor on a different computer, or test a different monitor on that computer to make sure that it is actually the monitor.
If the monitor is still in warranty RMA it, other wise if you have some soldiering skills you could spend 20$ to POTENTIALLY fix it.
Otherwise, I suggest waiting for your monitor to die, then going over to newegg and you can pick up a 23" 1080p LCD(TN) for around 150-200$.
ya I called all the places, no one will take it back not even samsung or newegg. This sucks since I just bought it last year, and its does excatly what you said. And it just did it again bro, IM FUCKING PISSED. Cause I paid this LCD with my own cash it was alot, $229 to be on the dot! Sucks man, but ya, I'm going to try doing that brightness thing that you explained. Its totally doing what you posted, sometimes it does, then it doesn't.
I dont even wanna wait, FUCK IT. Its time to go with a Asus...maybe. What do you guys think? I'm deff going to get a extended warrenty too if they offer it.
If ALL ELSE FAILS WITH SAMSUNG (TRY, Call, look around online ect) then call newegg and tell them that Samsung is not upholding their warranty, but be very nice about it, and they may hook you up.\
If it is out of warranty... then.. where do you live? I am sure somebody locally fixes elections.
When it becomes un-usable I may pay shipping to get it, before you throw it out.
Actually man, I dunno I'm starting to think its not the LCD. But I cant tell, because you said it would take several minutes to warm up if anything. When you say this.... Does that mean, NOTHING IS DISPLAYED AT ALL!? Cause I can display "Anaglog, HDMI, Digital" and "Testing Good"(fuck whatever that means). But the menu doesnt show up thats all.
Today I woke up, turned my PC on and my LCD. I think my PC totally booted up, and I must of waited like about 15mins or 10mins, and this fucking screen didnt turn on. I constantly just clicked the power button, I waited a bit after clicking it, then try to fuck with the screen button see if they did anything. Then I fucking got pissed a bit slammed the LCD on the table, cause this fucking shit should be working.
Anyways, I dunno guys, Maybe its not the LCD. Cause then after awhile, I was like fuck it, I hate the restart button on my tower and there it was, the screen was showing the boot up screen. I dunno, I really gotta try another LCD on this maybe, I think it couple possible be the "MSI video card" or even worst fucking mobo going to shit. I really have no idea whats causing this problem, but this isnt the best time to break down on me...
When the computer is on, but the monitor is blank, take the BRIGHTEST FLASHLIGHT YOU HAVE and aim it at the scree. If you see stuff then it is definitely the back light. (you may have to angle it around and tilt it to see something)
When you are switching inputs I bet the backlight is turning on for a split second then turning off.? Does this sound like what is happening?
Regardless, don't destroy it.
Do you have a laptop? Plug the monitor into the laptop and see if the same symptoms occur.
You should see what I used to go through to make COD montages... I had to sift through hours of footage, and almost every scene has slow motion in it (on sniping montages). I look forward to making some D3 videos, but for PvM, I don't know how exiting it would be... and you really wouldn't edit anything out.. We'll see.. I definitely plan for PvP videos.
As for time.. encoding and uploading doesn't take that long... and you can do it while you are sleeping or afk...
Sounds like the monitor may have some bad capacitors in it, and is taking a while to "warm up" so the back light can turn on.
Before you go to bed and turn off your computer, go to monitor settings and reduce the brightness, reduce it enough to were you can still see it though. The next morning if you turn your monitor on and it instantly comes on (with the reduced brightness) then you probably have some bad capacitors.
It sounds like this is the problem since you said if you turn it off and back on, it does not happen. This is because the monitor is already "warmed up".
Anyways, I would test the monitor on a different computer, or test a different monitor on that computer to make sure that it is actually the monitor.
If the monitor is still in warranty RMA it, other wise if you have some soldiering skills you could spend 20$ to POTENTIALLY fix it.
Otherwise, I suggest waiting for your monitor to die, then going over to newegg and you can pick up a 23" 1080p LCD(TN) for around 150-200$.
ya I called all the places, no one will take it back not even samsung or newegg. This sucks since I just bought it last year, and its does excatly what you said. And it just did it again bro, IM FUCKING PISSED. Cause I paid this LCD with my own cash it was alot, $229 to be on the dot! Sucks man, but ya, I'm going to try doing that brightness thing that you explained. Its totally doing what you posted, sometimes it does, then it doesn't.
I dont even wanna wait, FUCK IT. Its time to go with a Asus...maybe. What do you guys think? I'm deff going to get a extended warrenty too if they offer it.
If ALL ELSE FAILS WITH SAMSUNG (TRY, Call, look around online ect) then call newegg and tell them that Samsung is not upholding their warranty, but be very nice about it, and they may hook you up.\
If it is out of warranty... then.. where do you live? I am sure somebody locally fixes elections.
When it becomes un-usable I may pay shipping to get it, before you throw it out.
Sounds like the monitor may have some bad capacitors in it, and is taking a while to "warm up" so the back light can turn on.
Before you go to bed and turn off your computer, go to monitor settings and reduce the brightness, reduce it enough to were you can still see it though. The next morning if you turn your monitor on and it instantly comes on (with the reduced brightness) then you probably have some bad capacitors.
It sounds like this is the problem since you said if you turn it off and back on, it does not happen. This is because the monitor is already "warmed up".
Anyways, I would test the monitor on a different computer, or test a different monitor on that computer to make sure that it is actually the monitor.
If the monitor is still in warranty RMA it, other wise if you have some soldiering skills you could spend 20$ to POTENTIALLY fix it.
Otherwise, I suggest waiting for your monitor to die, then going over to newegg and you can pick up a 23" 1080p LCD(TN) for around 150-200$.
Wow, congrats man. I really like the look of that mobo. That corsair case is a monsterish looking thing too!
I also envy your video card. I think I should've held out and saved my money more to buy the GTX 500 series. But I think for now anyway, and for D3 my 460 will work just fine.
Might I ask how much you paid for that VelociRaptor harddrive? It seems a bit overpriced based on what I'm seeing for it. Maybe you got a deal on it. How comparable would you say it is to the Seagate Momentus XT?
Velocirapters aren't good for your money. The Velocirapter has slightly better random access times, but the Samsung F3 1TB beats it in reads/writes almost across the board. Realistically it is better to get 2 F3s in RAID 0 instead of 1 Velocirapter.
As far as Velocirapter vs SSD, it is night and day. The SSD is on an entirely different level. SSDs are a new experience, and I haven't come across anything that could change your computer more than an SSD could and once you get one you will never go back.
Also, I would suggest against these "hybrid" hard drives as they don't match the performance or feel of an SSD, and are as costly as a good 64GB SSD (as a boot drive). The only real reason I see a reason for these is for laptops that can only hold 1 HDD.
That case is one sexy thing, but I couldn't recommend it for AIR cooling (based on performance), as it is lacking in that department. But it is a water coolers heaven.
@ the OP
Very nice build, so you have a 360 for the CPUs and a 360+120 for the GPUs? I have to ask what type of temps you are getting on the GPUs. Also, I question what in the world are you doing to need all of that (unless just pure overkill).
The only criticism I could possibly add to this build is you need some right angle compressions for in between the 2 CPUs (assuming your pumps are in 2 different loops, it shouldn't hurt your flow rate at all)
What do you think of a corsair H100 or H80 cooler? I'm thinking of getting one of these instead of a noctua air cooler.
The H100 should beat the D14. But realistically, for the cost of the H100 you could build a much better custom loop.
I mean, it depends on what type of person you are.... If your computer is kind of a hobby I would definitely look into buying a water cooling kit such as a xspc rx240 kit as a START. Building a custom loop is around the same amount of money as a H100, but you get MUCH better performance, and you get the option to upgrade in the future (water cool your graphics card ect).
Personally, if you don't mind the bulkiness of the D14, I would just choose that. This should satisfy most peoples needs when overclocking. (you can achieve 4.5-4.7 for 24/7 use on a good 2500k/2600k with out too much worry.
If you want to keep it simple, and have a better looking PC, pick up the H100.
If you really enjoy computers/elections as a hobby AND YOU ARE CAREFUL AND CONSCIOUS, I would look into building a custom loop.
As far as questions or concerns about water cooling, I can't help very much. It is an expensive hobby that I can't afford (yet).
EDIT - SORRY I thought by the "noctua cooler" you meant THE NOCTUA D14, which is the BEST air cooler you can buy.
Anyways, Ill do a little thing of the best coolers at the price point.
Anything better than the Noctua D14 is either going to be the H100 (120$) or a custom loop (they start at~ 120-150$ but you can spend an infinite amount of money on water cooling. Noctua D14 90$ Thermaltake Frio 60$ Cooler Master Hyper 212+ 30$
Since you stated that you wanted to water cool in your original post, I would just use the stock cooler and not overclock, until you have the time/money to build a custom loop.
Realistically there shouldn't be any IMEDIATE need to overclock a new Sandy Bridge CPU or a Bulldozer CPU.
Think I smeared some of the thermal grease on the bottom of my fan/heatsink. <_<
Not exactly sure what you mean by this, but you are supposed to put a rice size grain of thermal paste on your heatsink, and yes YOU CAN PUT TOO MUCH. Depending on the thermal paste, it can also be conductive, so make sure you don't get it on any where else on the motherboard, except in between the CPU and the heatsink.
Siaynoq it was a gold screw on the motherboard tray that you could screw another screw into? if so that was just a standoff and is supposed to be under your board.
This is correct, stand offs are usually a bronze color, and for a standard ATX board there should be 9 stand offs on your case. You want to make sure the stand offs are in the correct location, and DO NOT HAVE EXTRA. IF YOU HAVE EXTRA STAND OFFS THAT DO NOT LINE UP TO YOUR MOTHER BOARD REMOVE THEM.
There is usually a template in your manual on the stand off locations for an ATX board, or you can look at the board and look at the case and just use common sense.
Diablo: We've invited press to Blizzard HQ to help us make some important announcements on August 1st. What features do you hope/think we'll reveal?
Strange wording, "features". Perhaps the beta announcement will or will not be announced, but regardless, it looks like he's indirectly hinting at a feature/mechanic reveal. What do you guys think it'll be this time?
More than likely some type of fighting mechanic or boss encounter mechanic. I doubt that they are ready to give us any thing specific about the auction house, or any of the things that are still a "complete mystery". Lets just hope they can push a beta out before November.
Omega, do you think my standard processor fan will suffice for an unlocked i5 or do I need to consider getting a new fan for it as well?
Oh by the way, that PSU you recommended to me has a really nice review here.
Well, later down the raod when you want to overclock it you will need to buy a better CPU cooler, but if you are going to run it at stock, then the stock heatsink is fine.
I've been thinking of spending an extra 60 dollars to get a 1000 Watt power supply (up from a 650 Watt). Would it be worth it just so I won't need to upgrade in the future?
It depends on the power supply... a 1000 watt Thermaltake, OCZ, Diablotek, and all of those other brands, is a 500w Corsair, Antec, or Seasonic.
A 650w Corsair can handle ANY single graphics card setup. If you plan on sli/cf (multiple graphics cards), you may want to look into a 750 or 850 depending on the graphic cards.
If you are still buying a 6870, then there is no need to get a better power supply, as the TX650 can handle CF 6870s.
You don't need more than a quality 650w, if you want to invest a little bit more pick up an TX750 as those have 4 native pcies to avoid adapters in the future.
Thoughts on my computer, these choices/other possibilities?
I chose these two parts based on their value as determined on the benchmark websites . I am willing to spend $200-350 total.
Uhm... please don't attempt to buy those..
In order to get a better CPU you need to upgrade your MOBO, and to get a better Mobo you also need to get better ram.
I mean, at this point, you don't have any GOOD upgrade paths, unless you want to buy USED stuff, you don't have a lot of options that are worth your money. I would stick it out, and save up some more cash (work over time or do what you have to do)
What I would suggest to do, is to wait for Bulldozer coming in the next few months, and see what budget offerings they have, as of right now, the only thing you could probably do is spend 150$ on a graphics card, such as a 6850, 5830, or possibly a 460.
If you lag in SC2 its mostly because of your CPU, but it would cost 400$ to upgrade your CPU/Mobo/RAM.
So I've been thinking of buying a new computer based off of the guide posted above with a few changes:
-I'm not getting the Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB because I already have a terabyte drive.
-I'm not getting either the DvD or Blu-ray readers since I have no need for either.
-I'm not getting the monitor because I already have a pretty nice one.
-I'm not getting the Logitech Z-623 speakers because I have no use for them.
-I'm replacing the Logitech G110 Keyboard for a cheaper Rosewill RK-800G because I see no need for the G110.
-I might be replacing the Logitech G500 Mouse with the Mionix NAOS 5000 per suggestion by Hpnot1Q.
If anyone sees a change they think they would make with the general build then I would be open for ideas. This guide should change on both the 24th of July and the 8th of August, so my changes may be outdated by the time you read this. I plan to build the computer by myself with assistance of my brother, so I am only paying for the parts and the shipping. The total price of the price without shipping should currently come to $1258.
Unless you are into water cooling, the HAF 932 is probably too big for you, you could save 50$ and buy the HAF 922instead. You might want to consider getting a better graphics card, possibly a 560TI, or if you like AMD get a 6950 2GB version.
Also, since you don't have speakers, I assume you use a headset? Let us know which headset you have, because the sound card may not be needed if your headset is not that good.
But for the rest if you idiots (not saying you are all idiots), don't suggest him to go AMD, AMD is currently crap, and is just out dated. The 1100T is easily beatin by a 2500k EVEN IN MULTI THREADED BENCHS. So.. in theory the 2600k is like 2 1100Ts..
Also, please don't suggest that 8GB of RAM is overkill, I mean in most cases it is, EXCEPT in any type of rendering programs, and modeling programs. Trust me, he will use 10GB using MAYA and his other software, and since he is using an SSD he won't be able to have a 10GB pagefile, so he better have enough ram. This build is obviously not going to be your average web browsing PC or gaming machine.
Also, unless he is doing stuff for NASA, you don't HAVE to choose a workstation grade processor, as often those only have 1 use. The difference between workstation vs gaming cards (or to my understanding) is workstation cards strive for accuracy/precision, where as gaming cards strive for speed.
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No offense (its not personal) I just don't like such naive ignorance against PvP.
I concur.
I guess this is a possibility, take your graphics card out and use rubbing alcohol with QUE TIPS and clean off the gold part, and then reseat it ensuring that it is in the mobo correctly.
When the computer is on, but the monitor is blank, take the BRIGHTEST FLASHLIGHT YOU HAVE and aim it at the scree. If you see stuff then it is definitely the back light. (you may have to angle it around and tilt it to see something)
When you are switching inputs I bet the backlight is turning on for a split second then turning off.? Does this sound like what is happening?
Regardless, don't destroy it.
Do you have a laptop? Plug the monitor into the laptop and see if the same symptoms occur.
As for time.. encoding and uploading doesn't take that long... and you can do it while you are sleeping or afk...
Is it within the 1 year warranty? If so I think you can do it here: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/service/request
If ALL ELSE FAILS WITH SAMSUNG (TRY, Call, look around online ect) then call newegg and tell them that Samsung is not upholding their warranty, but be very nice about it, and they may hook you up.\
If it is out of warranty... then.. where do you live? I am sure somebody locally fixes elections.
When it becomes un-usable I may pay shipping to get it, before you throw it out.
Before you go to bed and turn off your computer, go to monitor settings and reduce the brightness, reduce it enough to were you can still see it though. The next morning if you turn your monitor on and it instantly comes on (with the reduced brightness) then you probably have some bad capacitors.
It sounds like this is the problem since you said if you turn it off and back on, it does not happen. This is because the monitor is already "warmed up".
Anyways, I would test the monitor on a different computer, or test a different monitor on that computer to make sure that it is actually the monitor.
If the monitor is still in warranty RMA it, other wise if you have some soldiering skills you could spend 20$ to POTENTIALLY fix it.
Otherwise, I suggest waiting for your monitor to die, then going over to newegg and you can pick up a 23" 1080p LCD(TN) for around 150-200$.
Velocirapters aren't good for your money. The Velocirapter has slightly better random access times, but the Samsung F3 1TB beats it in reads/writes almost across the board. Realistically it is better to get 2 F3s in RAID 0 instead of 1 Velocirapter.
As far as Velocirapter vs SSD, it is night and day. The SSD is on an entirely different level. SSDs are a new experience, and I haven't come across anything that could change your computer more than an SSD could and once you get one you will never go back.
Also, I would suggest against these "hybrid" hard drives as they don't match the performance or feel of an SSD, and are as costly as a good 64GB SSD (as a boot drive). The only real reason I see a reason for these is for laptops that can only hold 1 HDD.
That case is one sexy thing, but I couldn't recommend it for AIR cooling (based on performance), as it is lacking in that department. But it is a water coolers heaven.
@ the OP
Very nice build, so you have a 360 for the CPUs and a 360+120 for the GPUs? I have to ask what type of temps you are getting on the GPUs. Also, I question what in the world are you doing to need all of that (unless just pure overkill).
The only criticism I could possibly add to this build is you need some right angle compressions for in between the 2 CPUs (assuming your pumps are in 2 different loops, it shouldn't hurt your flow rate at all)
I mean, it depends on what type of person you are.... If your computer is kind of a hobby I would definitely look into buying a water cooling kit such as a xspc rx240 kit as a START. Building a custom loop is around the same amount of money as a H100, but you get MUCH better performance, and you get the option to upgrade in the future (water cool your graphics card ect).
Personally, if you don't mind the bulkiness of the D14, I would just choose that. This should satisfy most peoples needs when overclocking. (you can achieve 4.5-4.7 for 24/7 use on a good 2500k/2600k with out too much worry.
If you want to keep it simple, and have a better looking PC, pick up the H100.
If you really enjoy computers/elections as a hobby AND YOU ARE CAREFUL AND CONSCIOUS, I would look into building a custom loop.
As far as questions or concerns about water cooling, I can't help very much. It is an expensive hobby that I can't afford (yet).
EDIT - SORRY I thought by the "noctua cooler" you meant THE NOCTUA D14, which is the BEST air cooler you can buy.
Anyways, Ill do a little thing of the best coolers at the price point.
Anything better than the Noctua D14 is either going to be the H100 (120$) or a custom loop (they start at~ 120-150$ but you can spend an infinite amount of money on water cooling.
Noctua D14 90$
Thermaltake Frio 60$
Cooler Master Hyper 212+ 30$
Since you stated that you wanted to water cool in your original post, I would just use the stock cooler and not overclock, until you have the time/money to build a custom loop.
Realistically there shouldn't be any IMEDIATE need to overclock a new Sandy Bridge CPU or a Bulldozer CPU.
Not exactly sure what you mean by this, but you are supposed to put a rice size grain of thermal paste on your heatsink, and yes YOU CAN PUT TOO MUCH. Depending on the thermal paste, it can also be conductive, so make sure you don't get it on any where else on the motherboard, except in between the CPU and the heatsink.
This is correct, stand offs are usually a bronze color, and for a standard ATX board there should be 9 stand offs on your case. You want to make sure the stand offs are in the correct location, and DO NOT HAVE EXTRA. IF YOU HAVE EXTRA STAND OFFS THAT DO NOT LINE UP TO YOUR MOTHER BOARD REMOVE THEM.
There is usually a template in your manual on the stand off locations for an ATX board, or you can look at the board and look at the case and just use common sense.
More than likely some type of fighting mechanic or boss encounter mechanic. I doubt that they are ready to give us any thing specific about the auction house, or any of the things that are still a "complete mystery". Lets just hope they can push a beta out before November.
/bored, only 12 days to go until beta date, and then another 2 months after that.
Well, later down the raod when you want to overclock it you will need to buy a better CPU cooler, but if you are going to run it at stock, then the stock heatsink is fine.
It depends on the power supply... a 1000 watt Thermaltake, OCZ, Diablotek, and all of those other brands, is a 500w Corsair, Antec, or Seasonic.
A 650w Corsair can handle ANY single graphics card setup. If you plan on sli/cf (multiple graphics cards), you may want to look into a 750 or 850 depending on the graphic cards.
If you are still buying a 6870, then there is no need to get a better power supply, as the TX650 can handle CF 6870s.
You don't need more than a quality 650w, if you want to invest a little bit more pick up an TX750 as those have 4 native pcies to avoid adapters in the future.
Uhm... please don't attempt to buy those..
In order to get a better CPU you need to upgrade your MOBO, and to get a better Mobo you also need to get better ram.
I mean, at this point, you don't have any GOOD upgrade paths, unless you want to buy USED stuff, you don't have a lot of options that are worth your money. I would stick it out, and save up some more cash (work over time or do what you have to do)
What I would suggest to do, is to wait for Bulldozer coming in the next few months, and see what budget offerings they have, as of right now, the only thing you could probably do is spend 150$ on a graphics card, such as a 6850, 5830, or possibly a 460.
If you lag in SC2 its mostly because of your CPU, but it would cost 400$ to upgrade your CPU/Mobo/RAM.
Unless you are into water cooling, the HAF 932 is probably too big for you, you could save 50$ and buy the HAF 922instead. You might want to consider getting a better graphics card, possibly a 560TI, or if you like AMD get a 6950 2GB version.
Also, since you don't have speakers, I assume you use a headset? Let us know which headset you have, because the sound card may not be needed if your headset is not that good.
If you take advantage of combos http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660725
you can get basically the same motherboard, except Asus has 3 yrs of warranty (2 more than the Asrock)
The RAM is a little on the ugly side, and a little slow, you can spend 15$ more and get these if you wanted to.
But for the rest if you idiots (not saying you are all idiots), don't suggest him to go AMD, AMD is currently crap, and is just out dated. The 1100T is easily beatin by a 2500k EVEN IN MULTI THREADED BENCHS. So.. in theory the 2600k is like 2 1100Ts..
Also, please don't suggest that 8GB of RAM is overkill, I mean in most cases it is, EXCEPT in any type of rendering programs, and modeling programs. Trust me, he will use 10GB using MAYA and his other software, and since he is using an SSD he won't be able to have a 10GB pagefile, so he better have enough ram. This build is obviously not going to be your average web browsing PC or gaming machine.
Also, unless he is doing stuff for NASA, you don't HAVE to choose a workstation grade processor, as often those only have 1 use. The difference between workstation vs gaming cards (or to my understanding) is workstation cards strive for accuracy/precision, where as gaming cards strive for speed.